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You are here: Home / Travel / Europe / Secrets of the Red Light District in Amsterdam: Etiquette and Hidden Gems of De Wallen

Secrets of the Red Light District in Amsterdam: Etiquette and Hidden Gems of De Wallen

March 24, 2019 by Karen Turner 3 Comments

So many visitors are curious about the Red Light District in Amsterdam. A former resident of Amsterdam, I have quite a bit to say about the Red Light District (known as de Wallen), which is one of the most debated neighborhoods in Amsterdam. This post will include etiquette for visiting the Red Light District, the history of De Wallen, and hidden gems of De Wallen.

  • History of de Wallen
  • Etiquette for visiting the Red Light District of Amsterdam
  • Tips for visiting the Red Light District, including safety
  • Streets in The Red Light District worth seeing
  • What to do in De Wallen besides party: Hidden gems in the Red Light District

Contents

This post may contain affliate links. Please see my disclosure for more information. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases (if applicable).
  • 1 The History of De Wallen and prostitution in Amsterdam
  • 2 Etiquette for visiting the Red Light District of Amsterdam
    • 2.1 Sex workers are people too.
    • 2.2 Do not take photos of the women in the windows!
    • 2.3 Avoid any “tours” of the windows
    • 2.4 Avoid shouting and littering. This is still a neighborhood that people live in!
    • 2.5 It’s illegal to carry around alcohol
    • 2.6 Keep your joints within the coffeeshop
  • 3 Tips for visiting the Red Light District, including safety
    • 3.1 Avoid street dealers
    • 3.2 Ensure that you have a bag that zips securely.
    • 3.3 Keep a close eye on your belongings and don’t leave them alone.
    • 3.4 If you choose to indulge in marijuana, do not mix substances and don’t overestimate how much you have.
    • 3.5 Watch your drinks and do not leave your drink out while going to the bathroom.
    • 3.6 If you’re traveling to Amsterdam solo, consider going out with a group
    • 3.7 Don’t be afraid to say something to the bartender if someone is making you uncomfortable or feel unsafe. Many bars have security.
  • 4 Beautiful spots of the Red Light District
  • 5 Hidden Gems of De Wallen
    • 5.1 Wynand Fockink Distillery
    • 5.2 Browsing for used books at Oudemanhuispoort
    • 5.3 Stepping into a cozy brown bar
    • 5.4 Having a beer at de Prael, one of Amsterdam’s best craft breweries
    • 5.5 Seeing the church at the centre of it all and people watching at the cafe around the corner
    • 5.6 Seeing a hidden church in the attic of a building
    • 5.7 Finding the former V.O.C headquarters
  • 6 Dive Deeper into De Wallen: Tours Not to Miss
  • 7 Have you been to the Red Light District in Amsterdam?

The History of De Wallen and prostitution in Amsterdam

A picturesque street within the Red Light District in Amsterdam.
If you are looking for more in-depth travel advice about Belgium and the Netherlands, I created a guidebook on behalf of Moon Travel about Amsterdam, Brussels, and Bruges. You can find this book on Amazon!

De Wallen is one of the oldest parts of Amsterdam. The Damrak area is said to had prostitutes selling their services since the 13th century. At this time, the canals were walled off to prevent the Amstel river from flooding the city, so the neighborhood was named for the walls (De Wallen). (For reference, there are other smaller red light districts in Amsterdam, but de Wallen is generally referred to as “the Red Light District.”)

In medieval times, married men and priests were not allowed to enter the area, but the trade was never fully illegal. Only after the Protestant Revolution did fornication become illegal in Amsterdam. Prostitution still persisted, but it went underground. During this time, the Netherlands had created an empire with countless ships, which only fed the Red Light District. Only in the 18th century did large-scale brothels become more common in Amsterdam. Finally, under the rule of Napoleon did prostitution become legal with the condition that prostitutes were checked regularly for health. A red card would be given after a clean exam.

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Although attempts at banning prostitution all together have been attempted over the years, it has survived the test of time. That said, there are more regulations today than in the past regarding regular health checks as well as increasing the legal age for sex work to 21. De Wallen has survived although with the decriminalization of marijuana in the 1970s and the incredibly successful iAmsterdam campaign, the Red Light District only gained more infamy as it became a hub for rowdy partiyng tourists.

Beautiful daytime photo of the Red Light District in Amsterdam with coffeeshops and cafes.

Despite this legal status, prostitution within the Red Light District is often still debated in the Netherlands. Many people believe that prostitution should be tolerated, regulated, and taxed, but the debate at the moment is focused on whether the Red Light District is an acceptable environment for sex workers as many sex workers have been harassed by tourists. Fewer sex workers are choosing to have windows within the Red Light District due to the harassment of them and their clients. As a result, you’ll see a lot of vacancies within the windows when walking around. This is why it is so important that you do not take photos of the windows as sex workers also have the right to privacy.

Tours within the Red Light District have now been banned (2019) and there’s a sense in Amsterdam that the neighborhood has turned into something that nobody wants anymore. The city has instituted a ban on new tourist-oriented stores within the center of Amsterdam, regulated short-term housing better to force people to book proper hotels (rather than Airbnbs), and instituted more measures to improve the quality-of-life within the neighborhood for residents. After mass tourism, badly behaving tourists aren’t being tolerated like they used to be and there’s a growing hostility against tourists who come solely to party in the Red Light District.

Etiquette for visiting the Red Light District of Amsterdam

Trompettersteeg, the narrowest street in Amsterdam, is at the heart of Red Light District.  Graffiti states no photos!

Now that the history of De Wallen and the current debate is explained, I have quite a bit of etiquette and tips for visiting the Red Light District for the first time. This is an area of Amsterdam that has been plagued with issues related to overtourism, crime, and harassment, so you need to be mindful of people who work and live here.

Sex workers are people too.

Regardless of how you feel about sex work (e.g. prostitution), sex workers are people too. These are jobs and they have lives outside of these contexts. There’s no need to point or gawk when you’re walking by a window in the Red Light District.

Do not take photos of the women in the windows!

Unless you want your photo or camera broken often by bouncers, don’t take photos in the Red Light District. Not all of the family or friends of the “painted” ladies in the windows know about their work and publishing photos of these women online puts them at risk. You’ll see clear signs along Trompettersteeg telling you not to take photos. There are plenty of other things to take photos of within the Red Light District and Amsterdam in general. (Click for the best photo locations in Amsterdam.)

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Avoid any “tours” of the windows

The city of Amsterdam has officially made any tour that goes past the windows of the Red Light District as part of a tour illegal. If you’re walking and someone offers you a tour of the Red Light District, this is illegal and should be avoided. Going forward, evening tours of the Red Light District will be illegal. There are plenty of other tours in Amsterdam to choose from!

If you’re curious about what happens behind the scenes, you can head to the “Red Light Secrets” museum, which discusses the history of prostitution and gives you a peek behind the curtain from within a former brothel.

Avoid shouting and littering. This is still a neighborhood that people live in!

This is a big one. As someone who has friends who live in the Red Light District, I really urge you to be quiet until you’re within a bar or cafe. A friend of mine has to sleep with earplugs every night as the noise is so bad and many historic buildings within the Red Light District are protected, so the glass in the windows is single-pane. Similarly, look for trash bins as it’s someone’s neighborhood. Can you imagine people keeping you up at night screaming and littering all over your porch?!

It’s illegal to carry around alcohol

A new law that is enforced within the Red Light District is that you are not allowed to carry around alcohol. It used to be that you could carry around alcohol, but you will get a 95 euro ticket that must be paid immediately. If you see the sign “0.0% zone,” you’re in a zone where drinking in public is illegal.

Keep your joints within the coffeeshop

The Bulldog, a coffeeshop that sells marijuana within the Red Light District in Amsterdam

Although many people seem to think that marijuana is okay everywhere in Amsterdam, it’s not okay to smoke on the streets of the Red Light District. Stay indoors at the coffeeshops as you’ll have plenty of choices to ensure your smoke without disturbing the locals who don’t always want to breathe in smoke!

Tips for visiting the Red Light District, including safety

Avoid street dealers

I can’t condone drug use, but I urge you to use caution if you choose to use drugs in Amsterdam. Only marijuana and magic truffles are tolerated. The rest is not. One of the most dangerous things that you can do is to engage with street dealers. For a while, street dealers were selling heroin to tourists instead of cocaine, which killed people. You have no idea what you’re getting. Don’t be afraid to call the police (112) if you get robbed or need assistance.

Ensure that you have a bag that zips securely.

There are quite a few pickpockets in the Red Light District who look for intoxicated and distracted tourists. I recommend ensuring that you have a bag that zips well. I personally prefer a crossbody purse, but I’d also encourage you to move your wallet somewhere less expected.

Keep a close eye on your belongings and don’t leave them alone.

Red lights and canal houses lit up at night within the Red LIght District in Amsterdam.

A lot of pickpockets target tourists within coffee shops, cafes, and bars within the Red Light District. Don’t put your items down while you’re busy doing something else or leave them unattended!

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If you choose to indulge in marijuana, do not mix substances and don’t overestimate how much you have.

One of the most common mistakes that tourists make is mixing marijuana with alcohol without knowing how marijuana affects them. Similarly, they really underestimate how potent the marijuana sold at the coffeeshops is. Know your limits and don’t be left sleeping/drooling on a bench.

Watch your drinks and do not leave your drink out while going to the bathroom.

As a general precaution, it’s important to not leave drinks that are unfinished out if you’re not watch them. This is especially true for women, even if they’re with a group. Keep an eye on your drinks and finish it before going to the bathroom. Also, don’t accept drinks from strangers without seeing it poured directly by the bartender.

If you’re traveling to Amsterdam solo, consider going out with a group

Before moving to Amsterdam, I traveled solo to Amsterdam and I generally don’t recommend visiting the Red Light District sober and alone. It’s weird. I’d recommend finding a group via your accommodations or a tour to go out with. It’s safer and more fun. (You can click for a solo female travel guide to Amsterdam.)

Don’t be afraid to say something to the bartender if someone is making you uncomfortable or feel unsafe. Many bars have security.

This is a big one. Most bars within the Red Light District have security, so if someone is harassing you or bothering you, don’t be afraid to call the bartender over. The bouncers are often happy to kick out creeps!

Your guide to the Red Light District in Amsterdam with etiquette that you must know before you visit and things to do in De Wallen besides partying.  Includes hidden gems in Amsterdam Centre. #amsterdam #holland #redlightdistrict #netherlands

Beautiful spots of the Red Light District

Although this might shock others, you can still a lot of beauty within the Red Light District. One very picturesque street that I always love to wander down is Heintje Hoekssteeg, which is close to Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (one of my favorite museums in Amsterdam). Similarly, Oude Hoogstraat 24 is the sight of the former V.O.C headquarters, now owned by the University of Amsterdam.

The end of Oudezijds Achterburgwal close to 208 is a surprisingly quiet and beautiful spot away from the crowds of the Red Light District. You’ll also find the entrance to Oudemanhuispoort, which is a small covered passage filled with book stalls. I also love wandering into the picturesque and quiet Walenpleintje and down the ivy-covered street of Bethaniënstraat.

Hidden Gems of De Wallen

Despite the crowds in the Red Light District, you’ll still find some hidden gems that make the area more tolerable away from the crowds! These are my favorite spots in the Red Light District.

Wynand Fockink Distillery

Jenever tasting within the Red Light District (De Wallen) in Amsterdam.

For those who drink alcohol, jenever is a well-known Dutch liquor that you’ll want to try within Amsterdam. Not surprisingly, you’ll find a number of great spots to try jenever in Amsterdam, but one of my favorites is the small and intimate Wynand Fockink Distillery. (You can click for more information about visiting here.)

Browsing for used books at Oudemanhuispoort

It’s easy to pass through Oudemanhuisport without giving it a second glance. This small street with a beautiful archway is where a courtyard used to be located, but it’s now filled with book stalls where you can buy secondhand books. Bring cash and enjoy!

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Stepping into a cozy brown bar

One of my favorite small delights of the Netherlands are the atmospheric brown bars where you can always step inside for a beer. Most are filled with gorgeous wood. You can click for my favorite brown bars in Amsterdam although I’d definitely recommend Proeflokaal de Ooievaar for the atmosphere.

Having a beer at de Prael, one of Amsterdam’s best craft breweries

For a beer, head to de Prael. This cozy Amsterdam bar has a cozy cafe where they serve their namesake beer at a reasonable price within a convenient location within the Red Light District. I prefer their Weizen (white) beer the most!

Seeing the church at the centre of it all and people watching at the cafe around the corner

The Oude Kerk within the Red LIght District of Amsterdam

The Oude Kerk is at the center of the Red Light District (ironically) dates back to the 13th century can be toured for a few euros. Otherwise, head to De Koffieschenkerij for a nice cup of coffee in the picturesque church garden. On a nice day, this is a great place to sit outside and people watch.

Seeing a hidden church in the attic of a building

One of my favorite spots in the Red Light District is Ons lieve heer op solder. This small museum included in the iAmsterdam pass includes three beautiful canal houses dating back to the Dutch Golden Age has a secret church in the attic. Catholics were not allowed to practice after the Protestant Reformation, so this museum is a moving testament to history and the freedom of religion. You’re guaranteed to learn a lot about Dutch history!

Finding the former V.O.C headquarters

One of the most beautiful buildings in the Red Light District has to be the former headquarters for the Dutch East Indies Company (V.O.C.). You can’t go inside, but you can admire it from the courtyard as you pass Oude Hoogstraat 24.

Dive Deeper into De Wallen: Tours Not to Miss

Amsterdam’s Red Light District, known locally as De Wallen, is more than just its infamous windows and neon lights. It’s a historic and cultural hub, and to truly understand its depth, guided tours can offer insights that casual strolls might miss. Begin your exploration with a Smoke and Lounge City Boat Cruise, starting right in the heart of De Wallen. For a more traditional canal experience with a twist, the Canal Cruise with Beer, Wine, and Cocktail Option offers scenic views with a side of refreshment. If you prefer to stay on land, the 2-Hour City Highlights Guided Bike Tour takes you through key spots, including parts of De Wallen. For flexibility, the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus and Boat options allow you to explore at your own pace. And as the sun sets, experience the district’s ambiance with the Evening Canal Cruise with Unlimited Drinks. Each tour offers a unique perspective, ensuring you see beyond the surface of Amsterdam’s most talked-about district.

Have you been to the Red Light District in Amsterdam?

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Planning your visit to De Wallen, the infamous Red Light District in Amsterdam? 20+ things to know before your visit to Amsterdam Centre with history and etiquette written by a former Amsterdam resident! #amsterdam #holland #netherlands

Filed Under: Amsterdam, Europe, Holland, Local Guides, The Netherlands, Uncategorized

About Karen Turner

New Yorker–born and raised. Currently living in the Hague, the Netherlands after stints in Paris and Amsterdam. Lover of travel, adventure, nature, city, dresses, and cats.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Patrick

    July 28, 2019 at 12:22 pm

    Really interesting article . Thanks.

    Reply
  2. Tom

    September 30, 2019 at 9:48 pm

    Interesting read, thank you, Karen.

    Reply
  3. Aleks

    December 4, 2019 at 7:47 am

    What a magnificent read. I only came for quick pointers but your entire article had me engaged. Thank you so much for such an informative piece, as well as a few nice recommendations. When I visit Amsterdam I’ll be sure to keep all of this in mind x

    Reply

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Karen. American expat and cat lover from New York City who lived in Amsterdam…. Then, Paris. Now, living in The Hague, the Netherlands. Happily married to Jacob.

Guidebook Author to Moon Amsterdam, Brussels, and Bruges, published March 2022.

 

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